My Reactions to the new Moschino…..
I watched and rewatched the Women’s Autumn - Winter 2024 Moschino Collezione fashion show by Adrian Appiolaza. I was straining to take in each and every detail of the show, to see if I could understand what was being presented to the world. I later watched all of the behind the scenes video clips and studied up close photos of the fashion show in order to see each and every detail.
I felt like this Moschino fashion show eased in like a breeze through an open window, whispering about its past and strutting with determination toward its future. The show began against a neutral backdrop with curtains and a muted floor instead of the usual MOSCHINO in bold black letters in the background on an empty runway. The show started with toned down pallet with a few pops of color in iconic ways, such as a bold yellow and black smiley face train on a silky midi / maxi skirt. Wearable and a but cheeky. A conversation starter.
I immediately thought this is very close to the way Rossella Jardini perceived the brand and very far away from what Jeremy Scott brought the House. It was wearable. I could see myself seeking out this product, actually looking and asking for Moschino.
There are many references to the past, so many…..such as embroidered sayings, the question mark, the smiley face, the PAX logo, pearls and chains, suspender printed blouses, the cowboy hat, the heart bag. Truly, if you study the collection very closely you can see the history being well interpreted for a modern woman. The bread loaf and celery bags were very Moschino in their concept as was the ½ cowboy / western hat and ½ baseball cap. Much like the milk carton and orange juice bags of the past. More conversation starters. More humor.
I loved the heart bags being reintroduced for a modern customer. A more toned down version, similar to the one made famous in the hit TV show The Nanny, and chosen by Emmy award winning costumer designer Brenda Cooper. It’s become iconic. Women love hearts. It is an eternal fascination with the concept of love…..and these, without the zippers and studs can be used by more women in more situations…..and I love that.
There were many layers of clothing and it was not until behind the scene video emerged and rewatching of the fashion show took place that I could see all the details. Again, the subtle nature in which this collection was presented, made a study of the fashions necessary. I have a rare understanding of the brand, as an archive owner. But to have that understanding I have had to study and continue to study the messaging by the brand. Those new to the brand who don’t know it’s incredible history, may not understand all the layers physical and psychological at one glance. But it is there, if one chooses to look. Like a painting in an museum, the more you look, the more you understand.
I really wanted to see the ending evening gown, the blue and white silk clouds dress, in full. It was hidden by a chunky sweater and adorable paper Hat, so this means I am going to have to work to learn more. And maybe that is the point. This presentation forces you to ask questions and learn more and is not spoon fed to you in an obvious way. This debut show required me to think, to watch, to look closely, to ponder and wonder …… where will he take the brand next.
This show was put together without the proper lead time normally given to a Creative Director. This tells me Adrian Appiolaza was very creative in putting together a quick concept. I read he worked with material already purchased by the previous Creative Director, who so sadly passed away in his first weeks in the position. This limitation surely impacted what was presented. This should mean the next collection with months to prepare, will be closer to the true vision Adrian Appiolaza has for the brand. And I can’t wait!
5 stars……. For wearable, fun, enjoyable, conversation starting, interesting pieces from a brand that tends to be overlooked by the mainstream consumer. May they rush back to the brand……quickly…and be as excited by the new pieces as I am each time I touch a special one from a 40 years old archive.
Jennie Walker…..
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